Woven Straws
As a general rule, woven natural straws are breathable and delicate. In addition to the specific straws listed below, this category includes straws such as laichow, parisisol, raffia, seagrass, and sisal. The single most important thing you can do to prolong the life of your hat is to handle it with two hands, by the brim. You should never pick up your hat by the crown – you’ll crack it open in no time and cry real tears over it. If you don’t think you can stop yourself from grabbing your hat by the crown, we advise you to look at our collection of braids – they can take a lot of abuse.
Panama
There are two easy ways to identify panama hats – 1) look for the “Hand woven in Ecuador” seal on the inside of the hat and 2) they’re woven from the center top out, resulting in a distinctive circular knot of fibers. Panama hats are frequently crisp and dressy, and breathable but delicate. The single most important thing you can do to prolong the life of your hat is to handle it with two hands by the brim. You should never pick up your hat by the crown – you’ll crack it open in no time and cry real tears over it. If you don’t think you can stop yourself from grabbing your hat by the crown, we advise you to look at our collection of braids – they can take a lot of abuse.
Paper
Sometimes called "Toyo" or "Twisted Toyo," paper straw is a less expensive alternative to panama. They breath reasonably well, especially twisted toyo. The single most important thing you can do to prolong the life of your hat is to handle it with two hands by the brim. You should never pick up your hat by the crown – you’ll crack it open in no time and cry real tears over it. If you don’t think you can stop yourself from grabbing your hat by the crown, we advise you to look at our collection of braids – they can take a lot of abuse.
Shantung
Shantung is a thin natural straw made from finely woven rolled rice paper with a coating for strength and a bit of sheen. These hats, like all woven straw hats, are delicate. The single most important thing you can do to prolong the life of your hat is to handle it with two hands by the brim. You should never pick up your hat by the crown – you’ll crack it open in no time and cry real tears over it. If you don’t think you can stop yourself from grabbing your hat by the crown, we advise you to look at our collection of braids – they can take a lot of abuse.
Sinamay
Sinamay is most commonly used for dressy feminine summer hats. Think Kentucky Derby, outdoor wedding, and Sunday best. They hold color well and come in all the shades of the rainbow. Sinamay can be starched to be ridged for gravity defying fascinators and whirls of trim or kept soft to make big dramatic brims. These hats do very poorly in weather and should be kept dry.
Braids
Braids are a broad category encompassing a wide variety of natural and synthetic materials. Narrow strips of plaited fiber are sewn together from the top of the crown out to the edge of the brim. They are then blocked for a crisp finish and trimmed. This construction makes them harder wearing than woven options, but not as hard wearing as felts.
We found this delightful vintage video showing how braids are sewn. Although this film is from 1955, little has changed. In fact, little has changed in hat manufacturing since the 1800s, when steam power was introduced. Much of the equipment used today was retrofitted from steam power.
Hemp
We seriously love hemp braids and take credit for convincing Stetson USA and Dobbs to add them to their offerings. Hemp fibers are woven into a thin braid, which is then sewn to form the hat. Hemp braids are both breathable and durable and frequently our top choice for everyday wear. They hold color well and can take poor handling, but we still advise you to handle your hat with two hands by the brim. Picking up your hat by the crown can change the shape of your hat and the natural oils on your hands will leave marks over time.
Linen Braid
The braid structure (fibers are woven into a strip, which is then sewn to form the hat from the center top) adds even more durability to the already hard-wearing, soft, and breathable linen. It’s usually blended with paper, polyester, and/or polypropylene to help keep its shape.
Palm Braid
“Braid” is a bit of a misnomer. These hats are made from strips of palm fibers that are sewn together from the center top to form the hat. These hats are ridged and hold their shape incredibly well, which makes them an excellent choice for wider brimmed hats and sun protection. They often have grommeted air vents to increase airflow as they are not especially breathable without. Many of ours are outdoor hats for hiking, gardening, and other recreational activities, so they come with chin cords.
Paper Braid
Paper Braids are far more durable than woven paper, which can be listed as “paper,” “toyo,” or “shantung.” They’re made from fine strands of rolled paper that are woven into a strip, which is then sewn to form the hat. Sometimes the paper is blended with polyester or polypropylene for added strength. They take a beating and, because they’re priced affordably, you won’t be furious with yourself if you need a new one every season.
Poly Braid
These hats come in beautiful, vivid colors that hold over time. These hats don’t breathe as well as natural fibers, but they’re virtually indestructible – just don’t light them on fire or expose them to chlorinated water. They’re easy to pack and can be wiped down with a damp cloth if they get sweaty. All that and they’re typically available at a lower price point than woven styles.
Nylon Braid
Sometimes called “horsehair” or “crinoline,” nylon braids make beautiful feminine hats. They’re light and airy, but not great for sun protection. They come in a wide range of colors. These hats take a fair amount of abuse but can be trimmed with beautiful feather work that is delicate. They can be a great choice if you need to travel with your hat or are going to an outdoor event and are not sure about the weather.
Ribbon
Ribbon hats are made from ribbon stitched together in the same way braids are stitched. They tend to be durable, with many casual styles being packable and rollable. The material is most common in summer styles, but occasionally shows up in feminine dress hats in high quality ribbons.